Chicago is in the midst of a surge in high-ticket tasting menus in restaurants operated by husband-and-wife teams. Chef Noah Sandoval and wife Cara Sandoval opened Oriole earlier this summer. Elske, from Blackbird vets David and Anna Posey, is on its way. And from chef John Shields and pastry chef Karen Urie Shields there’s Smyth.
The Shieldses met while working at Charlie Trotter’s. She came from Tru. He moved on to Alinea. In 2008 they both decamped for Appalachia and opened Town House in Chilhowie, Virginia, 343 miles from Washington, D.C., from where a good many of their guests made pilgrimages. Banking on subsequent national acclaim, Smyth can probably count on a good many of its own destination diners here in flyover country.
Meatier dishes are introduced by the squabs that hang above the kitchen’s wood grill; on the plate they’re dressed in pineapple sage leaves and served with a duo of fresh and fermented pea miso, an herb-forward dish sweetened with reduced grape juice. Lamb saddle brings the proteins to a climax of unmatched intensity—its accompaniments of black garlic sauce and seaweed marmite should be used sparingly.
177 N. Ada 773-913-3773smythandtheloyalist.com
