There’s not much Logan Square is short on when it comes to restaurants and bars: the neighborhood is packed with them, offering almost anything you could want. But while there are plenty of places to get a good burger, there hasn’t been a restaurant specializing in them since Parts and Labor closed last December. (And don’t tell me about Kuma’s; that’s in Avondale) Sports bars are also few and far between, which has never broken my heart, to be honest, but it’s a gap that needed filling. The Scofflaw Group’s latest venture, the Moonlighter—a surprisingly pleasant sports bar with an array of burgers—fills both roles handily.
Like the rest of the offerings, cocktails are simple and satisfying; most consist of no more than four or five recognizable ingredients. We enjoyed the refreshing Sundowner (Jamaican rum, lime, ginger, allspice, angostura bitters) and fruity, slightly nutty Boombox Foxtrot (bourbon, oloroso sherry, Peychaud’s Aperitivo, raspberry, and lemon). The only misfire was the Surprise Horizon: a base of Peychaud’s bitters with coconut milk, falernum, and lime that looks exactly like Pepto Bismol and tastes like an emo piña colada. (It’s no longer on the menu.) A few cocktails are available by the pitcher, and there’s a couple nonalcoholic options as well as a brief wine list. The extensive draft beer list is heavy on sours and low-ABV options—mostly from midwestern craft breweries, but you can also get a can of High Life.
