Yesterday two kids, brothers who both look younger than ten, were at Pokémon Go Fest. Today they’re at the River watching drag queen Elektra Del Rio literally swing from the rafters, totally overwhelmed by the loud music and the experience of being the only children in a screaming crowd of 150 adults. They are the toughest audience I’ve seen at any of my four drag brunches.
Brunch of Bitches satisfies that craving with exhilarating performances and a celebratory atmosphere. The three hosts and a guest dance and lip-synch their hearts out over two hours, jumping on tables, doing death drops on the bar, and somersaulting down the aisles. The girls catch their breath with filthy banter between sets, and are always looking for ways to interact with the audience, usually to give away free stuff. At my first brunch, I won two free passes to another brunch in a fake orgasm contest because that’s just how drunk they get you.
Nearly 40 queens have come through the River, but performing for so many people in such a large space poses a challenge for queens who are used to smaller clubs where sight lines aren’t an issue. “Our biggest struggle was getting so big so fast,” says Del Rio, 28. “We didn’t know how to give the best we could to every single person.” That meant doubling the length of track mixes from the standard three to four minutes so that performers could make it through the entire bar before their music ends. DJ Spenser “Scheiny” Scheinman keeps the music going on and on for the big finale, giving the queens ample time to score their last wads of cash from the wasted masses.
Correction: An earlier version of this article stated that Mad River in New York was located on the Lower East Side. It is actually on the Upper East Side.
Sun 11 AM and 2 PM; also Sat 6/29 11 AM and 2 PM, the River, 2909 N. Sheffield, 773-935-7500, theriverchicago.com, $40.
