Quiote, the Logan Square Mexican restaurant from former Salsa Truck owner Dan Salls, has had a mezcal bar in its basement since it opened early last year. Last fall, though, the bar got its own name along with a new beverage director when Jay Schroeder (formerly of Mezcaleria Las Flores) came on board. Now known as Todos Santos, the space looks the same as before—wood everywhere, including the floor, ceiling, walls, stools, tables, and bar—but has an entirely new cocktail menu.

One solution for mezcal is to use varieties of agave that are less in demand. At Todos Santos, two of the cocktails include mezcal made from the doba-yej agave, while two others feature Banhez ensemble, a mezcal that combines espadín and barril agaves. (“Ensemble” refers to mezcal made with multiple varieties of agave that are roasted and distilled together rather than blended after distillation.) As at Mezcaleria Las Flores, Schroeder’s cocktails span a wide range, demonstrating how versatile agave spirits can be. They’re fairly complicated—most have seven or eight ingredients—but entirely approachable.