“I’m a good Irish girl who has meat and two veg for most meals,” says Sarah Jordan, the chef at Johnny’s Grill. Vital wheat gluten, a staple for vegetarians and the main component in seitan—often used as a meat substitute—wasn’t exactly in her wheelhouse. But when Christine Cikowski and Joshua Kulp of Honey Butter Fried Chicken challenged her to create a dish with the protein found in wheat (also called “wheat meat” or just “gluten”), Jordan, who’d never worked with the ingredient before, rose to the occasion.
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