• Michael Gebert
  • Flat breads at Xi’an Cuisine

I visited a newish Chinatown spot called Xi’an Cuisine a couple of weeks ago, but neglected to mention it until I saw that Steve Dolinsky, a longtime and serious fan of Chinese food, had posted about it on his website. It’s entirely my failing, because I found it to be an exciting and pretty accessible new place that offers an unfamiliar side of Chinese cuisine: the kind that comes inside a bun.

  • Michael Gebert
  • Tofu noodles in hot oil

Those were more in the nature of try-once curios to me, but I would happily reorder two dishes besides the flat breads. Sliced marinated lamb was similar to, but not the same as, the lamb sandwich’s filling, and was tender with lots of flavor. And wide rice noodles in black vinegar and garlic sauce came to the table without the latter, but the sauces are in jars on the table; it’s a hearty dish once it’s doctored up.